“Yes” he said, “no, lets just get this clear, you are saying the pump is
fixed and working well,” I said “yes, yes” he said, “new pump, put in by
UNICEF. very good”. These words were still ringing in my ears as Francis and
I stood by what was a very new but (as might have been guessed) very broken
water pump.
The meeting with the tribal chief had been a useful one in that none of what
he had told us about the outreach clinic accurate. In fact in almost every
case the reverse was true. The people weren’t getting sick from drinking
dirty water (they were), the clinic fence had been repaired (it hadn’t) and
there were no military forces in the area (again, a bare faced lie!!).
The walk to the outreach site was uneventful, gone is the mud, replaced by
rutted tracks and smooth sandy paths. The sun is burning the vegetation away
from around us, with all the delicacy of a blowtorch. Not much has remained
unaffected and everywhere is yellow and dying.
As we walked along we passed though a village where the population seemed
very pleased to see us. Laughing could be heard in various houses and from
behind trees and bushes. In the distance men danced around and fell over. It
became obvious; as we got closer that everyone in the entire village, over
the age of four, was drunk.
The harvest season has just finished and the people here are able to make a
sort of wine homebrew. Clearly this village had enjoyed a bumper crop. Even
more impressive that they had managed to reach this level of alcoholic
stupor by nine thirty in the morning. It was like Liverpool on a Saturday
night. In some ways it might have been fun to stay and see what happened
when the party really got going! Another time.
The outreach clinic was running very well despite numerous problems. The
most comical was a difficulty experienced with weighing the children. In
order to do this we use a pair of dungaree shorts hung from what looks like
a butchers scales, suspended from the branch of a tree. Unfortunately the
bloke
doing this had a nasty habit of hanging the scales upside down. This led to
some babies weighing in at a stonking 25 kilos. A marker pen and a ‘this way
up ‘arrow soon solved the problem.
Statistics will, if you believe them, tell you anything and in this case I
can tell you exactly what date the pump broke (Wednesday November 3rd just
in case you’re interested). Why can I tell you this? Because three days
later we had an 67% upsurge in cases of gastroenteritis, we saw 33% more
wounds that week, caused by having to walk through a swamp to get to the
deeper drinking water, and a whooping 56% increase in eye infections, from
washing with, yes, you guessed it…filthy water.
The patients were drinking their medicine in the clinic with water that
looked like the sort of stuff found at the bottom of the sink after washing
up (for those of you who’ve lived with me, yes I am aware of what washing up
water looks like!). Putrid is the only way I can describe it. What is
particularly ironic is that we are giving them medicine to treat, amongst
other things, diarrhoea. And then we get them to knock it back with water
that you wouldn’t wash your car with in the west. I’m beginning to bore
myself about the water so I’ll stop now. Point, exhaustively, made.
The saddest case we saw involved a little girl who had been shot in the hand
during fighting four days earlier. The bullet had taken away a chunk of skin
at the base of her thumb and blown one of her fingers clean off. She wore an
expression of confused bewilderment, too young to understand the nature of
what had happened to her. As I lay awake that night listening to the
sinister rattle of machine gunfire I wondered what would turn up at the
clinic the next morning. Nothing did arrive, the optimist in me would like
to think that’s because no one got hurt. The realist thinks it’s probably
because they were beyond our help.
The staff themselves were all doing various jobs with an impressive degree
of efficiency, which considering we hadn’t visited in months, leads me to
think that actually it would be better if we just stayed at home and stopped
interfering. We were even able to promote a few which was fantastic for
them, and, I hope the clinic.
The high moral was shattered with dreadful Mozart cover version - the ring
tone on the satellite phone, which I can’t manage to change.“Hi Marcus, it’s
me (the boss). Listen there’s a bit of a problem, we’ve had to close one of
the clinics, the supervisor has resigned” “Resigned? You’re kidding.” “No”
she said. And, she meant it.
