To properly view Kenyas second largest city you have to see it as two separate entities. On the one side there is the Arab old town, rich in history, a rabbit warren of allays and housing built on top of one another. As it is the better half lets deal with this first. In a European context it looks like the type of stuff that The Great Fire of London turned into charcoal in the 1600's.
Geometry defying buildings overhang and seem to cling very precariously to the notion of staying upright. My guide, who had sort of invited himself along for my stroll through town, was a native of Mombassa. He pointed out the newer buildings to replace the ones that had collapsed. Proof that this method of construction will only beat physics for so long. We walked under the overhanging balconies at a pace that can best be described as brisk.
Next on to Fort Jesus, built by the Portuguese to protect themselves from just about everybody. Cannons and turrets face in all directions. Presumably so the Portuguese could shoot at er.... just about everybody. The majority of the building was constructed of coral, which is a terribly impressive, though not very sustainable method of building. Anyway a very reasonable way to spend an afternoon.
Now onto the other side of Mombassa. Even to think about it makes me grimace as if I had just scored a flamboyant own goal in the 89th minute of the cup final. Mombassa has gone in for the, pile it high sell it cheap brand of tourism. When I say cheap I mean, bargain bucket cheap. The coast is littered, and I use that word on purpose, with a plethora of beach resorts. These are about as in keeping with the local landscape as a bouncy castle would be in St Pauls Cathedral.
Spewing from these hotels are hundreds of tourists, most of whom have a waistline that is a danger to light aircraft when they lie down. The beaches along the coast cater for the lowest common denominator of pond life. On many occasions I saw very old western men wandering arm in arm with very young, African girls. And I don't think they were adopted daughters, though the age gap meant they could have been.
It is like Bangkok with a beach. Offers of drugs are never far away and some of Kenyas finest tourist tat can also be seen along vast swathes of the beach If you ignore this aspect of it Mombassa is lovely. I did and I enjoyed it.
