The sight of Mombassa in the rear-view mirror was indeed a relief. There are only so many times someone can try to sell you junk or drugs before it becomes a bit irritating. We took a detour on the way to the airport, to the ruins of an old Arab settlement. The name of this area was so memorable I forgot it almost instantly.
The guide, who again seemed to invite himself along, came out with such pearls of wisdom as “we have found the remains of three mosques this proves … (dramatic pause)…the people here were Muslim”. I was unable to prevent myself laughing out loud at this point.
After paying a sizeable bribe to a policeman (Kenya ranks at 129 out of 146 for corruption according to transparency international which makes it about as straight laced as Italian football!) I was able to progress to the airport and a very short flight to the airport of Lamu. Arriving at Lamu airport gave some indication of Lamus’ overall character. The airfield was a clearing in a wood; the terminal was a wooden hut. To get to the island itself took a ten minute boat ride. The sense of the pace of life slowing was palpable.
First the history blurb, (thanks Wikipedia!) The town was established in the 14th centuray. It is predominatly Arab, an important port to east africa. Cars are not allowed on the island and so the main method of transport is donkey. The main street in Lamu isn’t quite as wide as the pavement in Oxford Street. The houses are bundled together and rise, haphazardly, upwards, the streets are permanently in shadow.
On every corner is a stall selling all manner of things. Little alleys and cut throughs scurry away off the main roads. To follow every one of these, to their end, would take a life time. The population is around 20,000, though how anyone managed to count them all I don’t know! The place I’m staying is very good, with a sort of decaying charm; my bathroom has no fewer than seven taps. Only two of these actually produce water.
Lamu is known as a place to chill out, which is ideal for me. Certainly no one is ever in much of a hurry here. The first afternoon involved sleep, and little else. The second day was altogether more active. I had talked myself into a boat trip across to another island. On the boat with me were a couple of Germans and a group (mostly Brits) who were at various stages of a stint volunteering on community projects near Mombassa.
They had been sent out by a profit making company to help in various projects such as HIV awareness and teaching. The company they signed up with seemed to be excellent at taking their money and dreadful at supporting them. Many of them, fresh out of school, were put in situations that ranged from disorganised to dangerous. A number were not doing the jobs they had believed they would be doing. A very sad example what happens when charity and profit collide.
Having said all that, they had all triumphed in spite of the company that sent them, if not because of them. All told me how much they had learned about themselves and how they’re horizons had widened significantly. Proof what a profound effect an experience like this can have, no matter what obstacles are placed in your way. However it all seemed a bit of a headache I am glad I don’t have to deal with.
The beach itself was fantastic, miles of white sand and warm water. The dhows and boats bobbing gently in the gleaming water. A million miles from work, which was exactly what was required. The only fly in the ointment is that the pace of building here is frantic. Everywhere the sounds of drills and hammers. If Lamu sounds like your cup of tea then come here soon, before it becomes Mombassa mark two.
A couple of days here for me and then Nairobi for some essential if not very exciting shopping (shoelaces batteries, razors etc etc) and then back into the rough and tumble of outreach. Many thanks to all those who have e-mailed to say you are reading my ramblings. That some of you actually seem to be enjoying the experience is an unexpected bonus. I am finding the whole thing very cathartic. I'm so pleased I am able to share this adventure with you all.
